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How To Paint A Room  

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Painting rooms light colours will make them brighter.


 

HOW TO PAINT A ROOM



 
 

Painting a room can be made easy by following a few processes, not all rooms are the same but in general the same process should apply for each room. The following steps are a guide on how to paint a room.

 

Step 1

Have your colour chosen or at least having a good idea on what colour scheme you want, it can be a task in its self choosing colours.

Make sure you have all the tools you require to complete your painting project, including patching compounds, gap sealants (caulking) and sandpaper. Trips to the store will take up valuable time, time best spent completing your project.

 

Step 2

Once you have organised every thing that you need its time to empty out the room you want to paint. Take out as much as you can as working in an empty room is much easier and you will complete your room quicker because your not having to negotiate your way around things. However some larger pieces of furniture may be to hard to move out the room so if necessary just move them to the centre of the room and cover them with plastic or cloth drop sheets.

 

Step3

Now that the furniture has been removed cover the floor with drop sheets, always use cloth drop sheets as plastic ones can be slippery and unsafe to work on. If you are on a tight budget then use cardboard rather than paper but make sure you tape it down well.

 

Step 4

To wash or not to wash the room, in general all bathrooms and kitchens should be washed. Bathrooms will have soap splash residue around and also in some cases mould and the kitchen will have oil splashes from cooking and its surprising how far they travel. Other areas that could need washing are the living room if an open fire place is present or if the house is occupied by a smoker. Cigarette smoke is damaging to paint work, it should be washed off and generally it will still leave paint work with a permanent stain. Most bedrooms are ok besides some marks that may need to be washed off. Use common sense and if you are unsure just try washing a small area, if you donít notice the surface looking any cleaner then it will be fine to leave as is. If your paint work is chalky ( run your hand over the wall, if you have dry paint dust on your hand then the paint work is what we call chalky ) then you should wash all the walls and a coat of sealer/ primer would be advised.

 

Step 5

Now comes the fun part, all the preparation. One of the first things I do is fill all the large cracks in the room, normally they will need to be filled at least twice and will take the longest to dry, if you can manage to fill them the day before then this may save you some waiting around time. Once they are filled I will sand the ceiling and walls with a pole sander, this will remove lumps, dust and cobwebs from surfaces.  This can still be done by hand but will take a lot longer to do, during my apprenticeship that was the way we did it, by hand. While sanding the ceiling and walls have a pencil handy and circle any imperfections that you want to fill, this will make it easier to find them later, you can also use small pieces of tape as markers too but I find these can get in the way during the filling process. Now go around and fill all the areas that you want filled in the ceiling and walls, while waiting for your patches to dry start your gap filling. Most if not all house will have gaps around the cornice (moulding) caused by movement over the years, make sure you scrape any loose filler or loose paint from this area and sand before gap filling. If square set ceiling (no cornice) treat the same as explained. Once this is done gap fill around windows , door frames and skirtings, if you are going to be painting the woodwork (trim) make sure you sand the edgeís that meet the wall before you gap fill and once again remove any loose filler etc before you fill.

 

Step 6

Now go around and second fill any cracks or imperfections that you think require a second fill. I prefer to fill things twice rather than over filling and creating a lot of sanding. While waiting for the filler to dry you can sand the woodwork and fill any imperfections in the woodwork that you see.
Once the filler on the walls and ceiling is dry, sand and seal (prime) all patches. If you are painting a previously painted room the chances are that you wonít need to prime all the walls.

 

Step 7

You will have a few choices next, you can either undercoat woodwork first or start painting the ceiling then the walls. If you are using oil based undercoat on woodwork then I would suggest you undercoat woodwork first as oil based paint needs 16-24 hours to dry were as acrylic (water based) only needs from 1-3 hours to dry depending on temperature, so its all about time management at this stage. In general, first coat your ceiling, first coat your walls, then first coat woodwork, remember when the first coat on the ceiling and walls is dry check for any areaís that you missed filling, you can still fill these areas but remember to seal them and coat with one coat of top coat to bring them to the same stage as the rest off the room.

 

Step 8

Now finish coat your ceiling and walls, then paint your woodwork leaving the skirtings to last because when painting skirting it is easy to pick up grit or carpet fibres and you donít want to spoil all your good work by transferring these to a door or window. However, in some case's when time is running out quick and you can see you won't finish your painting project then maybe paint your skirting first (once walls are finished) as this will allow you to place furniture back into the room, windows, door frames and door's can be done at a later date. If possible store the paint you used for painting the skirting (baseboards) in a different container or strain back into original tin, as like explain you don't want to have grit in your paint when it comes to final coat on doors and windows.

 

 

 

A few things to note when Painting

 

 

Depending on weather conditions you may decide to use a heater or fan to help the paint dry, do not use them while you are painting, wait until you have finished each area before using. The reason for this is you don't want the paint drying too quick, you will need some time to work with it, so once again use common sense. As for open window's that will be your call, generally I close them while painting walls and woodwork but open them again to allow airing of the room, you may want to keep them open because of the fumes. The reason I close them is same as a fan or heater, the breeze coming through the window can make the paint go off too quick reducing your working time with it.

When purchasing tools and equipment take in to consideration how many rooms you have to paint and how often do you think you will be painting. Buying equipment can be a long term investment so think about what your long term needs are and perhaps you are better of spending a little more on good quality tools and equipment.

 


 

 

     
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